Tsuruga (“Ö‰ê) is a mid-sized city in southern Fukui Prefecture. The city is most famous for its port, which has been relevant both domestically and internationally over the centuries. More recently, it gained prominence as the new terminal station of the Hokuriku Shinkansen, when the line was extended from Kanazawa to Tsuruga in March 2024.
Tsuruga's port played a central role in the city's development because it provided the easiest connection from the Sea of Japan to Kyoto, Japan's former capital (by land and water via Lake Biwako). As a result, Tsuruga became a thriving port along the Kitamaebune shipping route, Japan's most important shipping route during the feudal ages, which connected Hokkaido via the Sea of Japan, Shimonoseki and the Seto Inland Sea with Osaka.
Following Japan's forced opening to international trade and subsequent industrialization, the city's port flourished once again in the first half of the 1900s as the main departure point for travelers to Europe via Vladivostok and the Trans-Siberian Railway. However, the port's and city's importance faded as air travel gained popularity.
Although not a popular tourist destination, the city offers a peaceful atmosphere and a number of interesting attractions, all of which can be experienced in a single day.
Attractions around Tsuruga Port
A cluster of tourist attractions, including a few museums, is found around the Kanegasaki Park, a waterfront park at Tsuruga Port, which also offers free parking.
Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (entry until 16:30) Closed: Wednesdays (or next day if Wed is a holiday), New Year Admission: 500 yen
Set in a reconstruction of four historic port buildings, this museum tells the story of two groups of refugees, Polish orphans in the 1920s and Jews in the 1940s, who were welcomed and offered shelter by the people of Tsuruga. The latter were given the ability to flee Nazi persecution thanks to the Japanese diplomat Sugihara Chiune, who allowed hundreds of them to leave Europe via Japan by issuing them visas against official orders.
Tsuruga Red Brick Warehouse
Hours: 9:30 to 17:30 (restaurants until 22:00) Closed: Wednesdays (or next day if Wed is a holiday), New Year Admission: 400 yen (diorama)
Comprising two buildings on the east side of Tsuruga Port, the Red Brick Warehouse was built in 1905 and used first to store petroleum, then until recently kelp. Today, one of the buildings houses a beautiful train diorama of the town as it looked in the early 20th century, while the other contains a cafe, restaurants and a gift shop.
Tsuruga Railway Museum
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 Closed: Mondays (or the next day if Monday is a national holiday) Admission: Free
In order to realize the strategically important rail connection between the Sea of Japan coast and the Pacific coast, Tsuruga was among the first cities to be connected to Japan's railway network. Packed with small exhibits relating to the railway history of Tsuruga, this small museum is set inside a reconstruction of the former Tsuruga Port Station building, where travelers from Japan to Europe would have begun their journey in the early 20th century.
Kanegasaki-gu Shrine
Always open Admission: Free
Overlooking the port of Tsuruga, this shrine is dedicated to the spirits of two imperial princes who lost their lives in a 14th century siege of a fortress located on the same hill. Today, the shrine is known for its many cherry trees and as a spot to pray for success in finding love.
Attractions in central Tsuruga
Kehi Jingu Shrine
Always open Admission: Free
Originally founded in 702, Kehi Jingu is the chief guardian shrine of the Hokuriku Region. Its main claim to fame is its 11-meter torii gate, officially ranked as one of Japan's "three greatest gates" alongside those of Kasuga Shrine in Nara and Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima.
Tsuruga Municipal Museum
Hours: 10:00 to 17:00 Closed: Mondays (or next day if Mon is a national holiday), New Year Admission: 300 yen
Located in a former bank, this museum contains exhibits on the town's history, as well as works by local artists, however explanations are offered only in Japanese. Possibly of more interest is the former bank building itself, which can be explored on multiple floors, including the former customer barrier and vault.
Minato Tsuruga Yama Museum
Hours: 10:00 to 17:00 Closed: Mondays (or next day if Mon is a national holiday), New Year Admission: 300 yen (500 yen for a combination ticket that also includes the municipal museum)
Right next to the Tsuruga Municipal Museum, the Minato Tsuruga Yama Museum houses two of the festival floats, which are paraded around the city in the annual festival of Kehi Shrine in early September. Alongside the floats, the museum contains impressive sets of samurai armor while a connected annex displays exhibits about the merchant ships, which brought prosperity to the region during the feudal ages.
Other attractions
While the eastern shore of Tsuruga Bay is heavily industrialized, the western shore is dominated by wooded hillsides with several sandy beaches.
Kehi no Matsubara Pine Grove
Designated a site of national scenic beauty, Kehi no Matsubara is also informally ranked as one of Japan's three most beautiful pine tree parks. The park's thick forest of Japanese red and black pines is crisscrossed with walking paths and meets the sea along a 1.5 kilometer stretch of white, sandy beach. Free parking is available.
Take a Hikari train along the JR Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo to Maibara (130 minutes) and then the JR Shirasagi limited express to Tsuruga (30 minutes). The entire one way journey takes just under three hours, costs around 13,000 yen and is fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass. This route via Maibara remains the faster and cheaper connection between Tokyo and Tsuruga despite the extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen (a direct shinkansen train ride would take over three hours and cost around 16,000 yen one way).
From Kyoto and Osaka
Osaka, Shin-Osaka, Kyoto and Tsuruga stations are connected by twice hourly JR Thunderbird limited express trains. The one way journey takes about 80 minutes and 4700 yen from Osaka and about 50 minutes and 3400 yen from Kyoto. It is fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass. Seat reservations are required on Thunderbird limited express trains.
How to get around Tsuruga
Good walkers can reach the port area in about 30 minutes from Tsuruga Station. Alternatively, there is a tourist loop bus, the Gurutto Tsuruga Shyūyū Bus, which connects Tsuruga Station with all sites of interest once per hour on weekdays and twice per hour on weekends and national holidays. The fare is 200 yen per ride or 500 yen for a 1-day pass.