How well does Sabrina's Cafe live up to the hype?

“I will not eat French toast for dinner. I will not eat French toast for dinner. I will not eat French toast for dinner.”

It doesn’t matter how many times you repeat this mantra on the way to the charming new Collingswood outpost of Sabrina’s Cafe. One glimpse of the triangular tower — thick, golden challah slices hugging creamy whipped cheese beneath a carpet of syrup-drenched bananas — can send your best intentions for a well-rounded meal right out the gorgeous plate glass windows.

The decadent brunch favorite is the restaurant’s all-time best-seller, according to Robert DeAbreu, who opened the first Sabrina’s with wife Raquel in Philly’s Italian Market nearly 15 years ago (they now run five locations). DeAbreau is well-aware of the captivating appearance of what has become their de facto signature dish.

“We always tell servers to carry the plate hip-height, so everyone can see it,” he said, laughing and unapologetic at being the cause of so many spur-of-the-moment sugar frenzies.

If you do get caught by the French toast honeytrap ($10.29), all is not lost. First, the dish is much lighter than it looks. Second, the salads at Sabrina’s are just as well-executed as the sweets. Preface your meal with a crunchy Caesar ($7.99), whose evenly spread dressing has just enough kick but won’t come back to haunt you hours later, and you’ll feel just fine about your sugary choice.

As long as you don’t hit the restaurant in the middle of the lunch rush, when the 98 seats fill up quickly (even the middle ones at the high-top communal tables), choosing what to order is pretty much the only difficult thing about eating in this airy Haddon Avenue dining room.

Sandwiches are big and satisfying, from the pleasantly-light, marinara-covered meatloaf on a chewy Sarcone’s roll to the heartier-than-expected “Cali Turkey,” where slightly dry meat was saved by an wonderfully piquant red pepper mayo (both $10.29). Less satisfying are the fries that come on the side — I found them cold and somewhat dry on two occasions, even though they’re hand-cut in house. However, if you upgrade to thick rods of fried polenta or a refreshing salad, it’s smooth sailing all the way.

The list of egg platters is appealing enough to exude considerable pull, and the crisp, hot homefries make up for the disappointment of their lunch-style cousins. Steak ‘n’ eggs ($13.89) is a standout version of the old-school diner classic, here upgraded with a spicy plum tomato chimichurri and a 24-hour balsamic marinade that tenderizes the 6-ounce. flat iron while infusing it with flavor.

Philadelphia’s Ashley Foods provides that custom cut of steak, as well as the Black Angus beef used in the variously topped, big and juicy burgers served on sturdy LeBus brioche buns. Veggie and turkey patties also are available. It turns out the turkey burger is one of the only things not made on premises, and it shows (rubbery texture, ho-hum spice). DeAbreau is aware of the issue — “Do you know how long it took us to find a turkey burger we liked? But they must’ve changed the recipe,” he lamented — and is searching around for a new provider.

The all-day menu is supplemented by Chef Lance Silverman’s brunch specials during the day and entree dinner specials at night. These offerings used to change daily, but will now rotate on a less-frequent, seasonal schedule to assure consistency, DeAbreu said. Helping make sure things run smoothly in Collingswood is kitchen manager Yahkoub Diahkite, who’s been with the company for nine years.

Service was casual but speedy — cups of La Colombe coffee were refilled without any prompting — and generally as cheery as the atmosphere in the pale yellow room. The high-ceilinged space is enlivened by colorful illustrations on giant hanging chalkboards, which were left by the space’s prior tenant, the short-lived Local Market and Cafe. A 15-seat patio out back is on tap for spring.

Unlike its star-crossed predecessor, which opened and closed within a single month, this incarnation of the former Woolworth’s shop has been wholeheartedly embraced by the neighborhood.

“The Collingswood community has been so friendly, so hospitable, so welcoming to us,” DeAbreu said, noting that many customers are people who once frequented the South Philly original, but are now married with kids and living on the Jersey side of the river.

Asked if even more Sabrina’s locations could pop up in the future, DeAbreu, 47, is low key.

“It’s a possibility, but we’re moving cautiously,” he said. “Right now we’re concentrating on what we have — making sure it stays great."

Danya Henninger reviews New Jersey restaurants for the Courier-Post. She is a former New Yorker who was happy to discover the wonders of South Jersey when she moved there 18 years ago. She now lives in Philadelphia with her photographer-tech writer husband, where she is weekend editor for BillyPenn.com and writes about craft beer. Reach her at danyahenninger@gmail.com with questions, tips or comments.

Sabrina’s Cafe

714 Haddon Ave., Collingswood

sabrinascafe.com or (856) 214-0723

Cuisine: Brunch, burgers and contemporary American dinner entrees

Food: ★★★½

Atmosphere: ★★★★

Service: ★★★★

Value: ★★★★

Overall: ★★★★

Recommended dishes: Steak 'n' eggs, stuffed challah French toast, meatloaf parm sandwich, Caesar salad

Hours: 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun.-Thurs.; 8 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat.

Breakfast and brunch: $4-$13

Burgers and sandwiches: $10-$13

Entrees: $14-$19

Dessert: $5-$8

Late night: No

Brunch: Yes

BYOB: Yes

Outdoor dining: Yes, coming this spring

Live entertainment: No

Wheelchairs: Yes

Parking: Street, plus a lot behind the restaurant

What the stars mean: Five stars is excellent; four stars is very good; three stars is good; two stars is fair and one star is poor.